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hot. Dried chilies are usually deseeded, cut into lengths and soaked in warm water to soften before use. Ground red pepper, also known as cayenne pepper, is a pungent red powder made from ground dried chilies. Substitute dried red chili flakes or chili paste. Chili oil is made from dried chilies or chili powder infused in oil, which is used to enliven some Sichuan dishes.

      Chinese cabbage, also known as Napa cabbage, has white stems that end in tightly packed pale green leaves. It has a mild, delicate taste.

      Coriander leaves (also known as cilantro or Chinese parsley) are used as a herb and a garnish in Chinese cooking. Sold in bunches in the herb section of supermarkets.

      Dried shrimp are tiny, orange shrimp that have been dried in the sun. They come in various sizes. Available in Asian markets, they should be orange-pink in color and plump; avoid any with a grayish appearance or an unpleasant smell. Dried shrimp will keep for several months in a sealed container.

      Dried sweet Chinese sausages (lap cheong), are thin, sweet Chinese pork sausages delicately perfumed with rose-flavored wine. They are used as an ingredient in stir-fries or braised dishes rather than being eaten on their own like European sausages. Sold in pairs, they keep almost indefinitely without refrigeration. Substitute sweet Italian sausage.

      Garlic chives, also known as Chinese chives, have thin flat leaves that resemble thin spring onions. They have a strong garlicky flavor and are added to noodle or stir-fried dishes during the final stages of cooking. If you cannot get them, use spring onions or regular chives.

      Green onions, also known as scallions or spring onions, have slender stalks with dark green leaves and white bases. They are sliced and sprinkled generously on soups and used as a garnish in Chinese cooking.

      Hoisin sauce consists of fermented soybeans, sugar, garlic, chilies and

      vinegar. The sauce is thick and dark and has a sweet, salty flavor. Commercially bottled or canned hoisin sauce is available in many grocery stores.

      Rice vinegar is made from glutinous rice and has a mild, sour flavor. It is colorless and is one of the definitive ingredients used in sweet and sour sauce. Substitute mild white wine vinegar.

      Rice wine or sake adds a sweet, subtle flavor to dishes. It is widely available in the specialty food sections of supermarkets. Dry sherry makes a good substitute.

Fresh wheat noodles	Fresh kway teow noodles (hor fun)	Dried egg noodles
Noodles are a universal favorite in Chinese cooking. Both fresh and dried noodles are made from either wheat, rice or mung bean flour. Fresh wheat noodles are thick, spaghetti-like noodles made from wheat flour and egg. Substitute fresh spaghetti or fettucini if you cannot find them. Fresh kway teow noodles (also known as “river noodles” or hor fun) are wide, flat rice noodles sold fresh in Asian markets. If not available, use dried rice stick noodles instead. Egg noodles, like pasta, are made from wheat flour, water and egg. They are available both fresh or dried. Substitute with ramen noodles, which are dried Chinese-style wheat noodles. They are most commonly available in the form of instant noodles.

      Salted black beans are soybeans that have been fermented and preserved in salt, hence their strong, salty flavor. Mainly used to season meat or fish dishes, they are sold in packets or cans and will keep for several months if stored in the refrigerator. Soak in warm water for 30 minutes before using to remove some of the salt.

      Salted pickled mustard cabbage (Kiam chye) is a type of pickled vegetable like sauerkraut. Soak the salted cabbage in water for 15 minutes to remove some of the saltiness.

      Sesame oil is extracted from sesame seeds that have been toasted, producing a dark, dense and highly aromatic oil that is used for marinades, sauces and soups, or as a table condiment. Its nutty, smoky flavor has become a hallmark of north Chinese cuisine.

      Sichuan peppercorns are not really pepper but a tiny, reddish-brown berry with a strong fragrance and acidic flavor. Also known as Chinese pepper or flower pepper (hua jiao), it has a sharp pungency that tingles and slightly numbs the lips and tongue, an effect known in Chinese as ma la “numb hot.” Japanese sansho pepper, sold in small bottles, contains other ingredients, but has a similar flavor. To obtain ground Sichuan pepper, simply dry-roast the peppercorns, then grind to a fine powder in a blender.

      Soy sauce is brewed from soybeans and wheat fermented with salt. Regular or light soy sauce is very salty and is used as a table dip and cooking seasoning. Dark soy sauce is denser and less salty and adds a smoky flavor to dishes.

Soft tofu	Firm tofu	Pressed tofu	Tofu skin
Tofu or beancurd comes in various forms. Soft tofu is silky and smooth but difficult to cook because it falls apart easily. Firm tofu holds its shape well when cut or cooked and has a stronger, slightly sour taste. Pressed tofu (often confusingly labeled as firm tofu) is a type of firm tofu that has had much of the moisture pressed out of it and is therefore much firmer in texture and excellent for stirfries. Refrigerate fresh tofu submerged in water in a plastic container. Tofu skin is the dried skin that forms on top of boiling soy milk; it is dried and sold in sheets.

      Star anise is a dried brown flower with 8 woody petals, each with a shiny seed inside, which gives a flavor of cinnamon and aniseed. Use whole and remove from the dish before serving. It is available in plastic packets in the spice section of Asian markets and well-stocked supermarkets.

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