Gunsmithing: Shotguns - Patrick Sweeney

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The trigger assembly is tightly-fitted and may require some forceful pulling to extricate it. With the trigger assembly out, turn the receiver upside down. On the inside of the receiver on the side away from the ejection port is a leaf spring. This spring activates the lifter. At its front end it is hooked under a stud on the lifter. Press the tip down and then to the side to free the spring. With the tension relieved, slide the spring off of its pivot post. (Some Brownings have the spring attached to the trigger assembly housing.) Turn the receiver onto either side. The large-headed screws are the lifter pivot pins. The smaller screws are their lock screws. Remove the lock screws and then the lifter pivot screws. Pull the lifter (one or two-piece) out of the receiver.

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      The tang screw has a locking screw.

      At the rear of the receiver extension you will see a small wooden or plastic cap. The cap holds the bolt spring in place. The crosspin just forward of the extension tip holds the cap in place. Carefully clamp the receiver in a padded vise. With the thumb of one hand press the cap into the tube slightly, and with a drift punch press the pin through and out of the tube. Ease the cap and spring out of the tube. There should be a cap on the forward end of the spring, which engages the bolt link. If it doesn't come out on its own you may have to push it out after you have removed the bolt.

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       Loosen the tang screw…

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      …then lift it out.

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      To remove the buttstock (once the tang screws have been removed) tap the rear of the receiver against a pad on your workbench.

      You cannot remove the bolt until you have taken off the locking block latch. Look on the lower edge of the ejection port. You will see a semi-circular cut. On the other side of the receiver is a hole, in line with this cut. The bolt lock latch is held in place by a pin through the bolt block. Slide the bolt backwards or forwards until the pin in the bolt lines up with the hole and notch. Use a ⅛-inch drift punch to press the pin out of the receiver. Insert the punch on the far side, and push the pin out of the bolt out through the ejection port. Lift the bolt lock latch and its spring out of the bolt.

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       With the stock off, remove the locking screws and then the trigger assembly screws, rear…

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      …and front.

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      On the Remington 11, the front “screw” is a pin, held on by its locking screw.

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      The Browning A-5 trigger assembly is one of many technical leaps John Browning assembled into his brilliant shotgun.

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      The lifter (in this shotgun a two-piece lifter) is powered by a spring on the left side.

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      Push down on the front leg, and pry it away from the receiver wall.

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      With the spring free, you can now slide it off of its rear pivot post.

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      The lifter pivot screws have locking screws also.

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      With the locking screws out, remove the lifter pivot screws.

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      This is a photo of the two-piece lifter, with one pivot screw and its locking screw.

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      Here you see the tang extension, the spring retainer and its cross pin.

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      On Browning shotguns, the lower edge of the ejection port has a grove in it for the disassembly of the bolt. Remington 11's do not. The shell stop pin is right underneath the operating handle.

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       With the bolt retracted to line the pin up with its clearance hole, press the pin out of the receiver

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      Here the shell stop pin is sticking out of the side of the receiver. Yes, it will have a collection of gunk with it.

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      The bolt-mounted shell stop and its activating spring are shown in this photo. The hole is oval so the stop can move out of the way when you are loading the magazine, but the spring pushes it back into line.

      Swing the link out of the way of the operating handle and slide the handle to the rear out of the bolt. The bolt is now free to slide out of the front of the receiver. Slide the operating handle forward and out of the ejection port.

      Scrub and lubricate everything. Use a bore brush to clean out the upper tang extension. It spends all its time in the stock and is prone to rusting. Give it a good swab with a patch of Break Free before reassembling it. Reassembly is the proverbial “reverse the disassembly procedure” but there are a few tricks to know. Fish the operating handle in through the ejection port and slide the bolt into the receiver. Marry the two up. To insert the pin for the bolt lock latch, first line its bolt hole up with the notch. Press the pin into the bolt just far enough to hold the pin in place. With the receiver upside down, place the bolt lock latch spring and bolt lock latch into the bolt. Press the latch down against the spring with one hand while pressing the pin with another. When the pin moves, you have captured the latch. You can now use a drift punch to press the pin the rest of the way home. Slide the bolt forward and leave it there.

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      To remove the operating handle you have to pivot the link down out of the way.

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      Pinch the pin between your fingertips

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