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I first met her.) Joe and Michael ate this dish once at Edith’s when I was out of town and both told me how much they liked it, so I’ve included it in my repertoire. Not only is it delicious, but it is easy to make as well. Serve with a simple red Bordeaux.

      2 lb (1kg) Belgian endives (chicory)

      2¹/₂ cups (625ml) whole milk

      2 dried bay leaves

      4 tbs (2 oz/60g) unsalted butter

      4 tbs (1 oz/30g) plain flour

      Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      10 oz (310g) thinly sliced ham, cut in 1¹/₂-inch (4cm) wide strips

      2 oz (60g) Gruyère or Comté cheese, grated

      1. Place 3 inches (7.5cm) water in the bottom of a steamer and bring to a boil. Steam the endives until they are tender and have turned a flat blue-green, about 20 minutes. Remove from the steamer and let drain for several hours.

      2. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C/gas 8–9).

      3. Scald the milk with the bay leaves in a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Remove from the heat, cover and let sit for at least 10 minutes. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

      4. Melt the butter in a medium-sized, heavy-bottomed pan and when it is foaming whisk in the flour. Let the mixture foam and cook for at least 2 minutes. Whisk in the milk and keep cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a metal spoon, 8 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

      5. Lightly salt the endives. Lay the strips of ham out on a worksurface and roll 1 endive up in each ham slice. Lay the endive and ham in a baking dish with the end of the ham underneath, so it doesn’t unroll. When all of the endives are rolled in ham and placed in the baking dish, pour the bechamel sauce over all, making sure it evenly covers all the endives. Sprinkle with the grated cheese and bake in the centre of the oven until the cheese is golden and the dish is hot, about 30 minutes. Remove from the oven and serve immediately, being careful not to burn yourself.

      Serves 4 to 6

       HÈLOÏSE’S APPLES AND SQUASH Les Pommes et le Potimarron d’Héloïse

      Hélloïse Tuyéras, our friend and a frequent source of toys, household objects and clothes for the children, makes this recipe often in winter, when apples and squash are both at their best. It is sweet and irresistible – when there are leftovers they get eaten, slightly warmed, for breakfast!

      Héloïse prefers to steam the squash, as do I, but it can be roasted as well, which gives another dimension to its flavour.

      3 kuri or acorn or other small, dense-fleshed squash,

      about 3¹/₂ lb (1.75kg), trimmed, peeled, seeds removed and cut into 2-inch (5cm) pieces

      1 tbs (¹/₂ oz/15g) unsalted butter

      1³/₄ lb (875g) tart cooking apples, cored, peeled and cut in eighths

       For the béchamel:

      1¹/₂ cups (12 fl oz/375ml) whole milk

      2 dried bay leaves

      3 tbs (1¹/₂ oz/45g) unsalted butter

      2 tbs (¹/₂ oz/15g) plain flour

      Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

      Freshly ground nutmeg to taste

      1. Preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C/gas 8). Butter a 9- × 14- × 2-inch (22.5 × 35 × 5cm) baking dish.

      2. Bring 3 cups (1¹/₄ pints/750ml) water to a boil in the bottom half of a steamer. Place the squash over the steamer and steam until it is tender, about 12 minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer the squash to the bowl of a food processor. Purée the squash, and reserve. If the squash is at all liquid, transfer it to a fine-mesh sieve and let it drain for 30 minutes. Transfer the squash purée to a medium-sized bowl.

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