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Vegetables. Sophie Grigson
Читать онлайн.Название Vegetables
Год выпуска 0
isbn 9780007359295
Автор произведения Sophie Grigson
Жанр Кулинария
Издательство HarperCollins
As they mature, the turnip flavour matures too and the outer skin toughens. As they approach tennis-ball size, they will probably need to be peeled. Before that it isn’t necessary unless the skin is discoloured. Raw turnip is rarely used in salads, which is a shame, as it has a pleasing crisp juiciness – try it thinly sliced in the Malaysian rujak on page 121, for instance, or tossed with crisp sweet lettuce leaves, thinly sliced eating apple and walnuts in a lemony dressing.
Medium turnips are open to more adventurous approaches, as long as they do not include a crude white sauce, which does nothing for them. I often roast them with a little olive oil, or serve steamed or boiled turnip quarters sprinkled with a gremolata (a very finely chopped blend of lemon zest, parsley and garlic), or drizzled with bright green parsley and basil oil (literally a little olive, sunflower or avocado oil liquidised with a handful of tender herb leaves).
As they swell up, you: a) will have to peel off the tough skin, and b) would be well advised to blanch the turnips before finishing the cooking. In other words, cut the turnip into cubes or slices and drop into boiling water for 3 minutes or so, before draining thoroughly. This softens the less appealing aromas, without destroying the flavour or texture completely. Finish off the cooking when needed by sautéing them in butter or, better still, glazing them, for which I give a recipe overleaf.
Glazed turnips with orange and honey
There are many ways to glaze a turnip. The simplest is to finish the cooked turnips in butter and sugar, stirring them over a moderate heat until the sugar dissolves, and the turnips begin to colour. This recipe brings orange juice and honey into play as well.
Serves 4
500g (1 lb 2oz) medium turnips
finely grated zest of 1/2 orange
juice of 1 large orange
30g (1oz) butter
1 tablespoon light runny honey
salt and pepper
Peel the turnips and cut into 2cm (3/4 in) cubes. Blanch in boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain thoroughly. Wipe out the saucepan and return the turnips to it, adding all the remaining ingredients together with a splash of water. Return to a moderate heat and stir until the butter has melted. Simmer, stirring frequently, until the liquid has all evaporated, leaving the turnips glossy with their buttery, orange glaze. Serve swiftly.
Torshi lift Turnip and beetroot pickles
I love the habit, at some North African restaurants, of bringing a plate of raw vegetables, olives and pickles to nibble on while you wait for the food. Very civilised, and naturally far better for you than stuffing in slices of bread and butter. I grab the startlingly pink crescents of pickled turnip – torshi lift – first. This pickle is crisp and juicy and very more-ish (as well as being Moorish). The colour comes from the inclusion of a few slices of beetroot, but the base flavour is the sweet, juicy, raw turnip. It doesn’t take long to make, and is a good addition to a plate of charcuterie, or served with cheese at the end of a meal.
Fills a 1 litre (13/4 pint) jar
1kg (21/4 lb) small/medium turnips
1 large raw beetroot
4 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
a small bunch of celery leaves
4 tablespoons sea salt
350ml (12floz) white wine vinegar
Peel the turnips and cut them in halves or quarters, depending on their size. Peel the beetroot, cut it in half and slice. Pack into sterilised preserving jars (see page 215), alternating layers of turnip and beetroot and interspersing with garlic slices and celery leaves.
Mix the salt with 1 litre (13/4 pints) water in a saucepan and bring up to the boil, stirring until the salt has dissolved. Add the vinegar, stir and then pour over the vegetables, making sure that they are completely submerged. Seal with non-corrosive lids.
Store in a warm (not hot) place – say a shelf in the kitchen. Leave them alone for 10–12 days. Once they are slightly softened and suffused with pink, move the jars to a cool place, where they will keep happily for a month or so.
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