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The Winner of Year 2009: A Solvent‐Free Biocatalytic Process for Cosmetic and Personal Care Ingredients

      Esters are an important class of ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Usually, they are manufactured by harsh chemical methods that use strong acids and potentially hazardous solvents; these methods also require a great deal of energy. Eastman’s new method uses immobilized enzymes to make esters, saving energy, and avoiding both strong acids and organic solvents. This method is so gentle that Eastman can use delicate, natural raw materials to make esters never before available.

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      2.1 Oxidation Reactions

      Enzymatic and microbial oxidations can be dated back to 2000 BCE with vinegar production that is based on the oxidation of ethanol by acetic acid bacteria. Enzymes involved in the biocatalyzed oxidations are dehydrogenases and oxidases. The more common coenzymes associated with dehydrogenases are nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide/nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide hydrogen (NAD+/NADH), nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate/nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate hydrogen (NADP+/NADPH), and flavin adenine dinucleotide/flavin adenine dinucleotide hydrogen (FAD/FADH2), whereas oxidases are usually assisted by flavoproteins for transferring electrons to molecular oxygen. Dehydrogenases can be found in aerobic and anaerobic organisms or microorganisms; however, oxidases are not present in strictly anaerobic species. Nowadays, dehydrogenases and oxidases have been extensively used for selective oxidations and as an alternative synthetic strategy for conventional oxidations with the advantages of being environmentally friendly and highly chemo‐, regio‐, and stereoselective. Nevertheless, due to poor stability of the two enzymes at high substrate/product/organic solvent concentration and temperature, large‐scale bio‐oxidation processes were few. The functional groups involved in those bio‐oxidations include hydroxyls of primary and secondary alcohols, carbonyls of aldehydes, saturated C–C bonds, C–N bond of amino acids, amines, nitroalkanes, and thiols [1].

      2.1.1 Oxidation of Alcohols and Aldehydes