LITMIR.BIZ

      Published by Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

       www.periplus.com

      Text and recipes © 2011 Carol Selva Rajah Photos © 2011 Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written permission of the publisher.

      ISBN: 978-1-4629-1458-6 (ebook)

       Printed in Singapore

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      Photography: Masano Kawana

       Food Styling: Christina Ong & Magdalene Ong

       Design: Periplus Design Team

      Basic Asian Ingredients

      Asian shallots are small, round and pinkish-purple. They add a sweet, oniony flavour and a hint of garlic to dishes. They are sliced, deep-fried and used as a garnish. Asian shallots are smaller and milder than those found in Western countries, with less juice so that they fry more easily. French shallots may be substituted, but use only half to a third as many as the recipe calls for as they are much larger.

      Asian basils come in three different varieties. The most common of the three has an intense aroma and is generally known as Thai basil (horapa in Thai; daun kemangi in Malaysian and Indonesian). Lemon-scented basil (manglak in Thai) is usually cooked rather than eaten raw. Holy basil or kaprow in Thai has a strong, sharp aroma and is used only in a few dishes. Look for brightly-coloured, fresh basil with leaves that stand firm, without any hint of wilting. European basil is a good substitute though it may not have as much bite and aroma as the Asian basil.

      Chillies are an essential culinary item in Asia. The flavour of fresh and dried chillies is different, so be sure to use the type specified in the recipes. Finger-length green and red chillies are usually moderately hot. Red chillies are often dried and ground to make chilliflakes and chilli powder. Tiny but fiery-hot bird’s-eye chillies may be red, green or yellowy-orange. Cut or break dried chillies into pieces and soak them in hot water for about 10 minutes to soften them before grinding or blending. If you want to reduce the heat without losing the flavour, discard some or all of the seeds.

      Chinese black vinegar is very similar in colour and aroma to the Italian balsamic vinegars, except there is a slight overriding aroma of soy and five spice powder, where the western vinegars have more wine aromas. If unavailable, substitute balsamic vinegar, although the flavours and aromas will be slightly different.

      Coriander leaves have the most complex of herb flavours: they are spicy, citrusy with hints of lime, and almost pungent and curry-like, all at the same time. All parts of the coriander plant are used. Fresh leaves are often chopped and added to salads and fillings, the seeds are used in curry pastes, and the pungent roots are mainly ground into Thai curries. Dried coriander leaves do not have the wonderful flavour and aroma of fresh ones, although they can be used.

Coriander seeds are the small round beige seeds of the coriander plant. They have a distinct lemony aroma with back notes of musk. These seeds, when dry-roasted and ground, are the main flavouring ingredient in curries as the mild flavour adds balance to other more strongly-scented spices like cardamom and nutmeg. Coriander seeds are available whole or ground in Asian food stores.

      Cumin is light er and slightly larger than caraway but smaller and narrower than fennel. Dried cumin seeds are elongated, almost like the hull of a boat, hairy and brownish in colour with a striped pattern containing nine ridges and a tiny stalk attached to the end. Whole and ground cumin are widely available in supermarkets or Asian food stores. Substitute fennel or aniseed.

      Curry leaves have a distinctive lemon-pepper fragrance with tinges of lime and ginger. These fresh almond-shaped leaves are generally sold on the stem, and are sometimes picked and packed in plastic bags. Look for green and firm, fresh-looking leaves. Dried curry leaves, though not as fragrant, can be used, or substitute fresh coriander leaves instead.

      Dried prawn paste is reminiscent of barbecued fish and prawns. It is known as belachan in Malaysia. Dried prawn paste is usually sold as a dark brown compressed block wrapped with paper or plastic and should always be dry-roasted before using. You can dry-roast a solid chunk by holding it with a pair of tongs or wrapping it in foil and roasting it over a flame to dissipate the fishy aromas. Or you can dry-roast it in a micro wave oven for 1 minute on high. Substitute fish sauce with some oyster sauce added if necessary.

      Fish sauce is produced by layering salt with fish or prawns in earthenware vats and allowing it to ferment in the brine solution for about six months. Bottles of fish sauce from various countries are available in supermarkets. Look for clear amber-coloured fish sauce, which is an indication of the best flavour and aroma. Fish sauce is used by most Asians for seasoning and marinades, while the more expensive variety is used in soups and as dipping sauces on its own or added with chilli and chopped garlic. Soy sauce with a bit of oyster sauce makes the best substitute.

      Garlic chives, also known as Chinese or Asian chives, have a strong aroma and flavour. They are normally sold in bunches. Look for bright green ones. They should be firm and dry, with crisp lower ends that snap if bent. Avoid any that have rotted and become “slimy.” Spring onions or Western chives can be substituted but they will not give the same distinctive garlicky aroma and flavour.

      Ginger flower is an edible, amazingly perfumed herb with exquisite aromas of floral ginger and lemony rose and a musk-and-strawberry sweetness. This spectacular flower is uncommon in countries outside the tropics. Look for this flower in Asian markets. Choose fresh-looking buds without too much wilting or browning

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