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      Published by

       Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

       with editorial offices at

       364 Innovation Drive, North Clarendon,

       VT 05759 U.S.A. and

       61 Tai Seng Avenue, #02-12

       Singapore 534167

      Copyright © 2000

       Periplus Editions (HK) Ltd.

      ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

      ISBN: 978-1-4629-0133-3 (ebook)

      Library of Congress Catalog Number: 99-050251

      Credits:

       All photography by Jacob Termansen. Additional photographs by Will van Overbeek (pages 2, 4, 8-23, 26-28).

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      First Edition

       3 5 79 10 8 64 2

       06 05 04 03 02 01 00

       PRINTED IN SINGAPORE

      THE FOOD OF

       TEXAS

      Authentic Recipes from the Lone Star State

      by Caroline Stuart

      With additional essays by Dotty Griffith

      Featuring recipes from the following Texas restaurants:

Reata Restaurant DeVille Restaurant
Star Canyon Ruggles Grill
Laurels Boulevard Bistrot
Cafe Annie Las Canarias
Américas Pappas Brothers Steakhouse
The Mansion on Turtle Creek

      Photography by Jacob Termansen and Will van Overbeek

       Styling by Christina Ong

      

PERIPLUS

      Contents

      PART ONE: FOOD IN TEXAS Introduction 5 Culinary History of Texas 6 The Biggest and the Best of Texas 11 The Mexican Connection 15 Where's the Beef? 19 Around the State 22

      PART TWO: COOKING IN TEXAS The Texas Kitchen 29 Texas Ingredients 30

      PART THREE: THE RECIPES Football Snacks 35 Snacks and Appetizers 38 Soups; Salads, and Sandwiches 48 Seafood 66 Poultry 72 Meat 88 Desserts 114 Drinks 126

      APPENDICES Additional Recipes 127 Acknowledgments 140 Sources 141 Shops & Artists 141 Index 143

      Patron John Boutin prepares to devour a crispy-fried tower of onion rings at Restaurant Biga in San Antonio. Hell wash it down with a bottle of Shiner Bock beer, brewed locally in Shiner, Texas.

      Part One: Food in Texas

      From the prairies to the Gulf Coast, the Lone Star State has it all

       by Caroline Stuart

      When we think of Texas, it is inevitable—and expected—that legend springs to mind. It is, after all, the second-largest state in the U.S. and home to larger-than-life legends Buddy Holly, Lyndon B. Johnson, Scott Joplin, and Gene Autry. From its panhandle on down to the Gulf of Mexico and the Rio Grande, Texas is filled to its ten-gallon brim with cattle drives and chuck wagon meals, ornery longhorn steer, and oil gushers spewing black gold.

      Everything here is big, from its prairies, to its ranches, to its oil baron mansions. Make no mistake, the Lone Star State is known for the serious appetites of its loyal Texans. And the history of Texas food is equally impressive. Over hundreds of years, its culinary heart and soul has been shaped by countless inhabitants, each stirring their own ingredients into timeless Lone Star recipes.

      Just sample this diversity for yourself. Early Spanish explorers found Native Americans making fry bread, raising vegetables, and flavoring their food with local pecans. Chicken-fried steak, a Texas classic, was an adaptation of German immigrants' beloved Wiener schnitzel. And in San Antonio, Mexican buhuelos are still a Christmas tradition; Each region has a style of food to boast about, resulting in fascinating cross-cultural creations. In fact, it's not unusual for a pot of fiery chili to share a table with crunchy Southern fried chicken, German bacon-laced potato salad, and Mexican nachos. All to be washed down with margaritas or ice-cold beer.

      The state's location provides the backdrop for this rich, varied cuisine. The Gulf Coast supports a thriving seafood industry; Texas wineries have existed since 1662 when Franciscan priests discovered local grapes. Strong culinary influences from neighboring Mexico permeate menus throughout the state. Long ties to the colonial South put peach cobbler on the tables of East Texas, while Cajun cooks from Louisiana introduced gumbos. Other immigrant influences arrived from farther afield, providing more intrigue to the mix: Spanish chorizo sausage and fruit-filled Czech pastries.

      Eating establishments vary as much as the fare. Barbecue joints remain justly famous for succulent brisket, ribs, and chicken. Urban cowboys crowd upscale

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